Shooting The Zambezi

A group of us decided to go on a rafting trip down the lower Zambezi River. After Victoria Falls, the river works its way through the deep gorge and east toward Mozambique and the Indian Ocean. In the 20 kilometers after the Falls, there is a series of 25 sections which have Rapids rated anywhere from a Level 2 to Level 6. Eight of us had heard that the Rapids were a lot of fun and wanted to experience them.

One of our group, Shaun, had been approached by someone when he first arrived in town with his fiancée, Nilay. This person offered to help him find a place to stay, but when Shaun said that he was all set on that count, the man said he could also arrange a white water rafting trip at a lower price than through the hostels. Shaun got his number with a very light promise he would get back to him.

Once at Jollyboys, our group got to know Shaun and Nilay, and when talk came up about going on a rafting trip, Shaun mentioned he had met this guy. Turns out, Shaun’s contact was offering the trip for a 33% discount relative to the going tour-group booking rate.

To ensure we were not setting ourselves up for a rip-off, we agreed to meet the owner, a Kiwi expat who turned out having the name Grubby. That’s right, Grubby. Grubby is a long-haired, chain-smoking bloke who showed up in a beat up old Land Rover.

Our bullcrap radar was on high alert. But after grilling him for a while, we decided he was on the up-and-up and confirmed the booking.

We were taken over to the river where we had to descend 1,500 feet to the Zambezi. The raft was inflated and ready to go, plus we were escorted by three very accomplished kayakers, who were alongside us to ensure none of us drowned if we fell in. We discovered that the guys in the crew were all full-time crew members for other companies – they were moonlighting on their day off.

We set out down the river starting at Rapids 7 – the seventh set after the falls. Since we had booked a half-day, we didn’t start right under the falls. Immediately, we hit the first set of rapids, rated a Level 3. We got a little wet on that. Subsequent rapids were a lot of fun.

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Rapids 9 was rated a Level 6 – too dangerous for our group so we had to get out and walk the shoreline under the cliff. The raft was left to flow down the river by itself. The kayakers dove right into the rough water, and it was amazing to watch them maneuver their way through.

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After rapid 13, we had a long stretch of the Zambezi that was calm, so we all jumped into the river to cool off. Rapid 14 was an easy Level 3, so we all stayed out of the boat as we floated through the white water in our life jackets.

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We only saw one crocodile – a youngster about three feet long, summing himself in the rocks. Crocodile are not very prevalent along this part of the Zambezi because the water moves too fast for them. Also, crocs of any significant size that go over the falls will be killed in the rocks below. Sometimes the very little ones can escape death when they go over the falls.

After about three hours, we finished the 25th rapid with a boating high-five.

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We were wet, tired, sunburnt and stoked. It was a fantastic experience.

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